Front Row with Logan Marlon

Image courtesy of Logan Marlon

Front Row with Logan Marlon

I met Logan at an Artist Alliance networking event in Cape Town, on one of those unnaturally cold days that seem to have become the new norm here in Cape Town. It was my first time at a networking event, and I was more than a little nervous about it—though I’d definitely recommend going, by the way. I arrived fashionably late, and the only available seat was on a boujee red couch right at the front by the “stage”. And there they were, dressed head-to-toe in black. I sat next to them, and we sipped our complimentary wine—the rich colour of which matched the plush couch beneath us. Somehow, we started talking, and that’s when I discovered their work. Logan showed me their collection on Instagram, and I was instantly hooked. They told me about a piece that had been featured in Vogue Philippines, which only seemed fitting for someone with their brilliance. Logan explained that their collection is all about creating non-gender-specific clothing—pieces that allow the individual to decide how they want to wear them. By the end of the event, I was intrigued, and I immediately pitched the idea to my editor.

Image courtesy of Logan Marlon

Now take a stylish detour with us as we dive into this exclusive interview with Logan, the visionary behind a non-gender-specific fashion movement. In this conversation, we delve into the inspiration behind their luxurious designs, the journey from concept—clownfish included (you’ll get the joke later ;))—to creation, and the impact their work is making on the fashion industry.

Logan Marlon dress featured in Vogue Philippines; Photography by Dicker & Dane

How is student life for you as a fashion design student? Do you believe that formal education in fashion design is essential for success in the industry, or do you think there are alternative paths that can be just as effective?

LM: Student life comes with its own challenges, but my education in fashion design has provided me with the essential foundation and tools for success. I always had the raw talent and a dream, but I didn’t know how to make it a reality. I still remember being in primary school when my art teacher, Mark Voight, noticed my fashion illustrations. I was only drawing garments, no figures. He drew a female figure, made photocopies, and said, “Now start designing your garments on this figure.” It blew my mind—I was just 11 years old. That moment elevated my creativity, and I haven’t looked back since. In today’s AI-driven world, anything seems possible, but for me, this hands-on approach was the best way to build my foundational skills.

Image courtesy of Logan Marlon

Alright, let’s get down to the good stuff—Logan Marlon’s latest collection, THEY/THEM.

What emotions or stories were you channeling when creating the 'THEY/THEM' collection? What message were you hoping to communicate through these designs?

LM: I identify as non-binary. My sense of style has never fit within the social constructs imposed on us as human beings. As a child, I was fortunate that my mom allowed me to live my truth—she let me wear whatever I wanted. As an adult, I’ve always shopped in both men's and women's sections to create my own unique style. As a designer, I don’t want to exclude anyone. This collection is about what the individual makes of it; it's simply the freedom to be. The color palette is neutral, and the silhouettes embody everything that is nonbinary in nature. It’s important that we live as our most authentic selves.

Logan Marlon x Panashe Ndhlovu collaboration; Photography by Robin Jones

How did your personal experiences or observations about gender fluidity influence the creation of the 'THEY/THEM' collection?

LM: My personal experiences have always been a source of influence and inspiration in my work. Some of the looks may be considered "feminine," but I style them differently on both men and women because that’s what clothing should be—whatever the wearer wants it to be. I regularly wear skirts and dresses from this collection to class, work, and church. I refuse to conform to outdated stereotypes.

Photography by Yaw Asiedu

Were there any specific design techniques or craftsmanship details in the 'THEY/THEM' collection that you're particularly proud of or that you think are unique to this collection?

LM: Before my bachelor’s degree, during which the They/Them collection was conceived, I had only worked with non-stretch fabrics. As a designer, it's crucial to critically analyse the entire design process from concept to production. Since male and female bodies differ, I needed to work with fabrics and pattern manipulations that would adapt to the wearer's body. I didn’t want to rely on the typical oversized, shapeless silhouettes often associated with non-gender-specific clothing. Instead, I aimed to offer options that ranged from oversized to bodycon. To achieve this, I incorporated both stretch and non stretch fabrics throughout the collection.

Image courtesy of Logan Marlon

The Clown Fish Mesh Dress has a striking use of pink on just one side. What inspired this asymmetrical design choice, and what story or message are you trying to convey through it?

LM: In clownfish social structures, individuals have the ability to become either male or female during their lifetime, depending on their social environment. While designing this collection, I conducted extensive research and drew inspiration from the clownfish, which features vibrant, asymmetric stripes. This inspiration led to the creation of the asymmetrical fusion white and black mesh dress. Researching your inspirations opens up a wealth of informed ideas and explorations, setting you up for creative success.

Photography by Yaw Asiedu

You've chosen to use vegan leather in your designs, which is a great step towards sustainability. How do you envision expanding sustainability in your future collections? Are there specific materials or practices you're excited to explore?

LM: In every collection I create, I prioritise sustainability practices. For example, I use vegan leather based on my personal experience with it; it can be washed as frequently as denim and is easy to clean if something spills. In my FRIDA collection, I used only dead stock or end-of-roll fabrics sourced from small businesses to create unique looks. Additionally, I incorporated various fabrications for the silhouettes to further emphasize sustainability.

Photography by Yaw Asiedu

If you could collaborate with any artist, musician, or creator (dead or alive) to design a collection, who would it be?

LM: Anyone who knows me will tell you that Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of Balmain, is my inspiration. Closer to home, TYLA also stands out. Imagine two coloured creatives from South Africa—it would be absolutely incredible.

Image courtesy of Logan Marlon

The Design Academy of Fashion (where they are currently finishing up their masters degree), in collaboration with Crates Collective, had the privilege of interviewing Logan Marlon. There was one moment that truly resonated with me—when the interviewers asked, with genuine curiosity, "What advice would you give to aspiring designers?". And Logan’s response left a lasting impression on me. “I know this is what everyone says—it’s not glamorous, and it’s not all about making headlines here and there. It’s a lot of hard work. But if you like what you’re doing, it doesn’t feel like work at any point. For young, aspiring designers, the piece of advice I wish I had received earlier is this: 'NOBODY IS COMING TO DO IT FOR YOU.'"

Logan Marlon’s words underscore a crucial truth for all creatives: the journey to success is intensely personal and requires immense dedication. It’s vital for aspiring designers and artists to understand that no one else will realise their vision for them. Only through their own hard work and perseverance can they achieve their dreams. Recognising this empowers creatives like us to take full responsibility for our careers and to push through challenges with the knowledge that, girl, it’s your ride—no one else is behind the wheel.